Magnolia 1896 Shiraz 2021

Robert Parker

The 2021 Magnolia 1896 Shiraz is from the Magnolia Road vineyard in Vine Vale, at the foot of Mengler's Hill (granitic rock base). Like the Magnolia 1965 tasted prior, this wine is made from fruit grown on vines planted in the Vine Vale sands, however here, we have much older vines (planted 1896) and in shallower sandy soils, over a bed of mica-laden clay. This tiny 0.45-hectare section of the vineyard is slightly lower in elevation than the 1965 parcel, at 315 meters. The fruit is handpicked according to the lunar calendar. On the nose, this wine is concentrated and expressive of raspberry compote, crushed rocks, ginger root, dusted licorice and sweet roasted meat. In the mouth, the fruit rises on a shore of pluming tannin. The experience here is 360 degrees—a total, kaleidoscopic look at the fruit character within the tannic framework. Like being underwater, all other sounds and sights cease to exist or matter when you are peering into the depths of this complex wine. This is an exciting, modern, earth-driven take on Barossa. It feels good, really good. This has as much tannin as fruit, as much flavor as texture, as much magic as earth. 14.8% alcohol, sealed under natural cork and wax.